The Wide Wide Sea: Imperial Ambition, First Contact and the Fateful Final Voyage of Captain James Cook

In March 1778, Captain Cook’s expedition found refuge from stormy seas in an inlet along the North American coast, now known as Nootka Sound. The area, surrounded by dense forests and calm waters, provided a perfect location for the much-needed repairs of the ships. The local Mowachaht people, initially curious and welcoming, engaged in trade with Cook’s men, exchanging valuable sea otter pelts and other goods for metal items. The Mowachaht people, witnessing Europeans up close for the first time, speculated that these unfamiliar visitors were supernatural beings, specifically salmon transformed into humans. Cook’s crew was fascinated by the Mowachaht’s craftsmanship and culture, although tensions arose due to cultural misunderstandings and aggressive negotiations. Cook’s stay at Nootka Sound led to the acquisition of numerous sea otter pelts, highly prized in Asia, which foreshadowed a future boom in the fur trade. The expedition left the sound in late April, the ships now repaired and ready for the next leg of their journey toward Alaska.

After departing from Nootka Sound, Captain Cook’s ships faced a severe storm which tested the crew’s endurance and the vessels’ integrity. Amid the chaos, the Resolution sprang a significant leak, which the crew managed to control through frantic efforts. Despite the storm’s ferocity, Cook maintained his composure, inspiring confidence in his men. As the weather cleared, the ships continued northward along the uncharted coast of Southeast Alaska, navigating a landscape of majestic peaks and fjords. Cook sought to verify the existence of the mythical Strait of Admiral de Fonte but found no such passage. In his exploration, Cook paid homage to the legacy of Vitus Bering, whose earlier voyages had charted parts of this region. The journey underscored the immense challenges of charting unknown territories, balancing the need for detailed exploration with the pressure of adhering to the Admiralty’s broader mission.

As Cook’s ships ventured into Prince William Sound, they encountered treacherous currents, ice, and thick fog, complicating their navigation. The sound’s rich ecosystem astounded the crew due to its abundant wildlife, including whales, seals, and diverse fish species. Cook named the area Sandwich Sound, but the Admiralty later renamed it Prince William Sound. The crew found temporary refuge in a cove and made the necessary repairs to the Resolution’s significant leak. Interactions with the Indigenous Chugach people, who were adept traders and navigators, highlighted their sophisticated culture and resourcefulness. Despite some promising signs from exploring parties, Cook concluded that the sound was not a passage to the north and decided to continue his exploration along the Alaskan coast.

Cook’s ships navigated the perilous Gulf of Alaska along the Kenai Peninsula. They entered a promising inlet, now known as Cook Inlet, with hopes of finding the Northwest Passage. Despite initial optimism, salinity tests and other signs indicated it was a dead-end estuarial river system. After extensive exploration, Cook concluded again that it was not a navigable channel to the north. Disappointed, Cook arranged a formal ceremony to claim the land for Britain. This involved a brief, tense encounter with the local Dena’ina people, culminating in a possession ritual that included raising the Union Jack and burying a bottle with coins and a note. Despite the futility of this search, Cook’s team meticulously documented their findings and interactions with the Indigenous people.

Captain Cook’s ships navigated through the Aleutian Islands into the Bering Sea, where they explored Alaska’s west coast. Despite harsh weather and fog, Cook meticulously charted the coastline, naming several landmarks like Bristol Bay and Norton Sound. He aimed to identify a northern passage but instead outlined Alaska’s vast subcontinent. The crew enjoyed abundant fresh food from the sea and land. Tragedy struck when their surgeon, William Anderson, died of tuberculosis. Despite this, Cook’s spirits lifted upon reaching Cape Prince of Wales, the westernmost point of Alaska. They then crossed the Bering Strait to Siberia, where Cook’s diplomatic skills led to a peaceful encounter with the Chukchi people. Cook’s charts significantly improved the understanding of Alaska’s geography, replacing the inaccurate Russian maps.

Captain Cook’s ships entered the Arctic Ocean after passing the Bering Strait, pushing northward with high hopes of finding the Northwest Passage. They crossed several key parallels, including the Arctic Circle and the 70th parallel, marking new heights of exploration. However, their progress was halted by an impassable ice pack, which Cook likened to a solid wall. The ships faced significant danger as they navigated close to the ice, and Cook decided to retreat and explore the ice’s edge westward toward Siberia. Despite harsh conditions and near disaster, Cook’s determination led to important observations about the formation of sea ice. Ultimately, Cook decided to abandon the Arctic for the winter, opting to sail south to the Hawaiian Islands, aiming to explore and map the archipelago, thereby salvaging some purpose from their failed search for the Northwest Passage.