The Omnivore's Dilemma

Pollan argues that a main component of the omnivore’s dilemma is that humans can eat everything but also must make decisions about what is safe to eat. The mushroom that Pollan threw out represents this dilemma. Humans are uniquely designed as omnivores. Their jaws and teeth are equipped to handle a variety of foods. Their metabolism requires numerous chemicals found in many different types of plants and animals, and their stomachs have an enzyme that enables them to break down this diverse range.

Human instinct in eating requires specific biases to help navigate toward the right kinds of foods. A preference for sweetness rewards a brain that requires large amounts of glucose to function. A sensitivity toward bitterness helps protect humans from foods that might be toxic. Pollan also explores how disgust plays a role in protecting humans from foods that might be dangerous to eat, as disgust signals when food is rotten and unsafe. Despite these important indicators, humans are still vulnerable to a series of misdirections. Some foods that are bitter may be pleasant to eat or may even have other properties humans find appealing, such as in the case of the opium poppy. Cooking and other food preparations can make many unsafe items safe to consume.

Because humans are presented with an array of choices and because the right decisions are not always made clear, they codify certain laws that guide eating. Many of these rules are more about culture than about health, as in the case of sitting down while sharing a meal. Food availability presents more problems than whether a food is safe or dangerous to eat—it also presents threats to culture, climate, and health. Pollan calls these customs and laws of eating “America’s National Eating Disorder,” and he points to fad diets as an example of this problem. The journalist argues that Americans are particularly prone to large cultural swings in their understanding of nutrition and have never nailed down a specific culinary identity.

In the opening of this chapter, Pollan considers a steak dinner. Having visited the Salatin farm, as well as the feedlots in Kansas, he experiences a new wave of feeling at the prospect of eating a cut of red meat. Vegetarianism is on the rise, and many question the ethics of consuming meat from both a moral and health standpoint. Pollan suggests that this may be because scientific revelations are blurring the line of distinction between humans and animals. Consciousness, a quality that was formerly believed to be a uniquely human characteristic, belongs to many in the animal kingdom. The ability of humans to consume beings that they know to be intelligent (pigs, for instance, are as intelligent as dogs) is attributed to the fact that these animals are raised out of sight on industrial farms.

Pollan presents a simple argument against the consumption of animals: If the basis of morality is predicated on the fact that humans are more intelligent than the animals they eat, then that same basis could be used to dominate certain humans for their perceived lack of intelligence. Although Pollan finds logic in this argument and others against eating meat, he recognizes his own hypocrisy and finishes his steak. However, he wonders if in later years he may feel a strong pang of regret at his decision. The arguments weigh on him, and Pollan decides he must be a vegetarian to decide whether he wants to remain one.

Pollan finds that vegetarianism comes with its own dilemma. He finds his meals less communal and more labor intensive. He feels uncomfortable when his friends must now accommodate his dietary restrictions. However, he is struck by the reality of animal suffering and the ways that industrialized farming contributes to this moral problem. Pollan’s vegetarianism allows him to eat eggs, which he believes can be extracted with little suffering to chickens. Further research reveals that egg farming on an industrial scale was the least humane. Still, Salatin’s farm remains in Pollan’s mind as a different way to support the omnivore. The animals there lived good lives that would not have been successful in the wild. Domestication is a part of the evolutionary path of farm animals and pets, allowing them to thrive where other species have declined.

In contrast, Pollan’s research reveals that the planet cannot sustain humans on a vegetarian diet. Even the plants and grain that humans eat can have detrimental effects to animals. The journalist acknowledges that, no matter what is on the plate, humans face a moral dilemma. He determines that the best path forward is to find ways for animals to live good lives and suffer little.