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65 pages 2 hours read

Jennifer Chiaverini

Mrs. Lincoln's Dressmaker

Fiction | Novel | Adult | Published in 2013

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Chapters 15-18Chapter Summaries & Analyses

Chapter 15 Summary

Mr. Lincoln’s former law partner, Mr. Herndon, holds several lectures about the late president; he makes several illegitimate claims about Mr. and Mrs. Lincoln’s marriage lacking love and affection. Although Mr. Herndon receives negative criticism for his lectures, the assertions emotionally wound Mrs. Lincoln. Robert Lincoln threatens to sue Mr. Herndon if he continues to write about his family’s private life. Mr. Lincoln’s pastor defends Mrs. Lincoln, citing his personal experience witnessing the loving bond between the couple.

Two years later, Mrs. Lincoln resorts to selling her dresses for additional income; she asks Elizabeth to meet her in New York City to assist with the endeavor. Mrs. Lincoln travels under “Mrs. Clarke” for added protection as she stays in a humble, affordable hotel. Elizabeth faces discrimination and hurtful prejudice from the owner of the hotel. The hotel’s manager refuses Elizabeth a suitable room near Mrs. Clarke/Mrs. Lincoln, and he denies her dinner. Elizabeth focuses on helping her close friend instead of allowing her anger and frustration to spoil their reunion.

Mrs. Lincoln informs Elizabeth about an early meeting she conducted with a jewelry buyer. Though she tried to remain anonymous, a partner at the company recognized Mrs. Lincoln’s name engraved on one of her rings. Mr. Keyes and Mr. Brady promise to assist Mrs. Lincoln with selling her possessions, believing they can bring in at least $100,000 in income. Mrs. Lincoln and Elizabeth conceal their identities for weeks while the business partners devise a plan. Eventually, Mr. Keyes and Mr. Brady convince Mrs. Lincoln to blackmail Republican politicians via threatening letters. By warning certain politicians that she intends to publicize the Republican party’s failure to support Abraham Lincoln’s widow, Mr. Keyes and Mr. Brady believe the gentlemen will pay her expenses to prevent a national scandal. Elizabeth dislikes the idea, finding parts of the plan dishonest. However, Mrs. Lincoln has lived in unfavorable conditions long enough and devises a devious plan. However, the politicians ignore Mrs. Lincoln’s letters. What’s worse is that reporters discover Mrs. Lincoln’s presence in the city and speculate about her intentions there. Mrs. Lincoln leaves New York feeling worse off.

Elizabeth remains in New York City as a favor to Mrs. Lincoln, hoping to sell pieces of her wardrobe to private buyers. She openly advertises the wardrobe as Mrs. Lincoln’s; however, Mrs. Lincoln’s poor reputation prevents the sale of her items. Elizabeth misses her friends and business in Washington City but stays in New York at Mrs. Lincoln’s request. Mrs. Lincoln refuses help from Frederick Douglass and other well-known people of color, insulting Elizabeth. Elizabeth worries about how her efforts to help Mrs. Lincoln sell her clothes hinder her reputation.

Mrs. Lincoln and Elizabeth’s relationship becomes strained when Elizabeth attempts to organize a European tour of Mr. Lincoln’s personal items bestowed upon her by Mrs. Lincoln. She does so as part of a fundraising effort to rebuild Wilberforce University, George’s college before his death. Taking inspiration from Frederick Douglass and Sojourner Truth, Elizabeth decides to clear her name and Mrs. Lincoln’s reputation by writing her memoir.

Chapter 16 Summary

Elizabeth initially feels self-conscious about her ability to write an intriguing story. However, a friend introduces her to an editor, Mr. Redpath, who compliments her writing and commits to publishing her book. Elizabeth concludes all attempts to sell Mrs. Lincoln’s wardrobe, an endeavor that cost Elizabeth and Mrs. Lincoln more money than it made. Elizabeth remains in New York City to complete her manuscript. She confesses her literary project to Mrs. Lincoln in a letter, promising Mrs. Lincoln to portray the Lincolns in the best possible light. Although Mrs. Lincoln doesn’t explicitly disapprove of Elizabeth’s book, she fails to give her blessing for the project. Elizabeth feels better about her writing when Mr. Redpath vows the book will positively serve Mrs. Lincoln’s reputation.

Mr. Redpath convinces Elizabeth to let him borrow letters from Mrs. Lincoln to verify her stories. She gives Mr. Redpath the letters with the understanding that they will remain private. Mr. Redpath moves forward with the publication of her book, which Mr. Redpath titles Behind the Scenes: Thirty Years a Slave and Four in the White House. Elizabeth feels overwhelmed with pride when she holds her finished book for the first time. However, she dislikes a few decisions made by her editors. Elizabeth disapproves of the inaccuracy in the title; she was enslaved for nearly 38 years. She finds her portrait on the cover to be unflattering. Her editors embellished her stories from her formative years as an enslaved person for dramatic effect, which Elizabeth believes dishonest. Most appalling is that an appendix at the back of the book contains copies of Mrs. Lincoln’s private letters.

Elizabeth’s book receives widespread criticism. Without reading her memoir, several reviewers condemn the memoir as a betrayal of the Lincoln family. Many critics question the authenticity of her work, doubting Elizabeth’s intelligence and ability to write a book. Simultaneously, Behind the Scenes is labeled poorly written. Mrs. Lincoln stops speaking with Elizabeth altogether. However, Mrs. Lincoln’s reputation is restored as upper-class people rally around her, seeing her as a victim and Elizabeth as a villain. Elizabeth attempts to defend her writing and reputation in a rebuttal that her editor sends to New York’s Citizen newspaper. She challenges the reporters and newspapers who frequently write harsh criticism of Mrs. Lincoln, and she asks her critics to compare Behind the Scenes to those news articles. Still, the negative reviews continue to denounce Elizabeth and her memoir; Elizabeth deduces that her skin color is the primary cause of the uproar.

Elizabeth’s sewing business suffers from her diminished reputation, and she becomes increasingly dependent on book sales. Unfortunately, she fails to sell enough copies to reclaim the cost of printing and advertising to make any profit. Many of Elizabeth’s friends distance themselves from her to preserve their careers and well-being. Elizabeth writes frequently to Mrs. Lincoln, who never replies. She decides to live an exemplary life for the remainder of her days to atone for her disloyalty to Mrs. Lincoln.

Chapter 17 Summary

Elizabeth moves back to Washington City in 1968, warmly welcomed by Virginia and Emma. Elizabeth continues work on a quilt she started shortly after Mr. Lincoln’s death. Pieced together from the scraps from Mrs. Lincoln’s dresses and sewing orders, Elizabeth hopes to gift the quilt to Mrs. Lincoln and perhaps rekindle their relationship. Elizabeth struggles financially. Having not received any payment for her memoir, Elizabeth sues her publisher for half of the earnings on her book. She loses her case, costing her even more money.

Elizabeth follows news about Mrs. Lincoln, sending her letters in Germany as Mrs. Lincoln and Tad travel abroad. She hopes to meet with Mrs. Lincoln when they return to the United States. Shocked, Elizabeth learns that Tad died after suffering from a severe respiratory illness. Elizabeth worries that with Tad gone, Mrs. Lincoln will completely lose her desire to continue living. Several years later, Robert Lincoln forces Mrs. Lincoln into a psychiatric hospital. Elizabeth regrets her estrangement from Mrs. Lincoln more than ever, believing she could comfort her friend as she had after Willie’s and Mr. Lincoln’s deaths. Elizabeth contacts Mrs. Lincoln’s doctors, requesting permission to send Mrs. Lincoln the finished quilt. They kindly advise Elizabeth to wait on sending the quilt as memories from the past torment Mrs. Lincoln. Elizabeth remembers how quickly Mrs. Lincoln dispersed Willie and Mr. Lincoln’s possessions after their deaths, and she packs away the quilt.

Elizabeth reads about Mrs. Lincoln’s worsening condition in the newspaper. She fears Mrs. Lincoln will never be able to travel to Washington City again. Mrs. Lincoln is released from the hospital to the care of her sister, news that brings Elizabeth great relief. However, in 1881, President Garfield is shot in the chest while walking with Robert Lincoln, causing his death a few months later. Elizabeth fears the assassination will trigger Mrs. Lincoln’s traumatic memories, emotionally distressing the already delicate woman. When Congress decides to pay a significantly larger widow’s pension to Mrs. Garfield, they also increase Mrs. Lincoln’s payments, including a lump back payment of $15,000. Elizabeth feels content with this news, knowing her friend will live more comfortably. However, Mrs. Lincoln only lives for a short while longer. She dies, having never reconciled with Elizabeth.

By 1890, Elizabeth falls on hard financial times and resorts to selling her possessions, including her mementos from Mr. and Mrs. Lincoln. She learns that Robert Lincoln pulled strings to diminish Behind the Scenes printed stock, reducing her sales. Hearing of her dilemma, Bishop Daniel Payne of Wilberforce University offers Elizabeth a job as a professor in the school’s Department of Sewing and Domestic Science. At 74 years old, Elizabeth leaves Washington City and moves to Ohio, accepting the position. She enjoys working with her inquisitive students, who pass no judgment about her strained relationship with Mrs. Lincoln. They ask eagerly about Elizabeth’s experience working in the White House, and Elizabeth often rewards her students with a scrap of fabric from a previous sewing project for Mrs. Lincoln.

Elizabeth travels to Chicago with her students for the World’s Columbian Exposition as Wilberforce University presents exhibits at the event. She remembers her difficult weeks with Mrs. Lincoln in Chicago. Elizabeth enjoys watching her students peruse the exposition, marveling at the inventions and cultural displays. She finds resolve in considering the many ways she has positively impacted numerous lives.

Chapter 18 Summary

Elizabeth returns to Washington after experiencing a minor stroke. She lives in a charitable home for women of color, partially financed by endowments from the Contraband Relief Association. Elizabeth enjoys her small, simple room and carriage rides around the city for fresh air. A friend presents Elizabeth with a newspaper article detailing an exhibit at the Pan-American Exposition in Buffalo, New York, featuring a collection of books written by people of color. Behind the Scenes displays alongside the other books. Elizabeth laughs at the criticism from white reporters, believing them to be self-unaware and cruel.

Shortly after the Exposition, Mr. Fry, a journalist, asks to interview Elizabeth about her time in the White House. He remembers his mother reading Elizabeth’s book and commenting positively about her writing style. Elizabeth agrees, flattered by Mr. Fry’s compliments. She refuses to gossip about the Lincolns, instead expressing her genuine affection for the family. She speaks straightforwardly to Mr. Fry, telling him of not fully understanding liberty without suffering. Mr. Fry agrees with Elizabeth and shares his positive opinion of Mr. Lincoln. Mr. Fry asks if Elizabeth’s favorable opinion of Mr. Lincoln extends to Mrs. Lincoln. Elizabeth only replies that no one can possibly measure up to Mr. Lincoln’s greatness. Elizabeth clarifies that she doesn’t regret writing about Mrs. Lincoln in her book since all the information had already been made public. She never profited from her book, so she carries no guilt for her words. She also explains how her publisher took liberties with her book, printing Mrs. Lincoln’s letters without Elizabeth’s permission.

Elizabeth retreats to her room, uncaring how Mr. Fry will spin his article. She realizes that she is nearing the end of her life. She cherishes her freedom and takes comfort in knowing how little she needs or is expected of her. She feels content to live the remainder of her days with simple comforts and rest.

Chapters 15-18 Analysis

The tragic end to Mrs. Lincoln and Elizabeth’s relationship reemphasizes Forgiveness as Ambitious Though Essential Work. Elizabeth articulates her final opinion of the Lincolns: “He was a remarkable man, the greatest man I have ever known. If I were to use him as a measuring stick for Mrs. Lincoln or anyone else, including myself, we should all fail to measure up” (346).

Although Elizabeth is too gracious to speak poorly of Mrs. Lincoln, her honesty about Mr. Lincoln betrays Elizabeth’s opinion that she thought less of the first lady despite being her close friend. Elizabeth provided invaluable support to Mrs. Lincoln for decades, often at her own expense and while enduring ignorant, insensitive comments from the privileged family. Mrs. Lincoln’s failure to forgive Elizabeth reinforces that she did not value Elizabeth much more than a servant. Their friendship depended on Elizabeth working to advance Mrs. Lincoln’s best interests, and never the opposite.

Elizabeth’s medallion quilt symbolizes the nature of Mrs. Lincoln and Elizabeth’s relationship; historically, the women are forever stitched together. While intended as a gift for Mrs. Lincoln, Elizabeth realizes the quilt holds just as many significant memories for herself: “Each one seems to me like an old friend, and when my gaze falls upon one, I remember the gown cut from the same cloth, and the grand occasion for which it was made” (243). Although Mrs. Lincoln attended the grand events wearing the incredible dresses, Elizabeth’s talent, skill, and hard work are represented in the garments. Mrs. Lincoln loses the opportunity to enjoy this quilt and all the memories it holds as she turns her back on Elizabeth. Working as a professor, the medallion quilt serves a more meaningful purpose as Elizabeth instructs her students in sewing. Elizabeth no longer prioritizes Mrs. Lincoln’s needs over her own, and she values her talent and legacy.

By working as a professor at Wilberforce University, Elizabeth rounds out the theme of Resilience and Agency of Black American Women. While initially doubting her ability to teach a younger generation, she eventually “thrived in the classroom and on peaceful strolls around the campus chatting with her cheerful, inexhaustibly curious, impossibly young students” (336-37). Unlike Mrs. Lincoln, Elizabeth never expects anyone else to support or bail her out. She doesn’t shy away from new opportunities, even at an age when most people in modern times would consider retirement years. Her efforts to support herself contrast with Mrs. Lincoln’s failed attempts to blackmail politicians to support her financially. Not only does Elizabeth take on new work, but she makes the most of it, learning to enjoy herself in the process.

More valuable than any financial compensation, Elizabeth’s memoir contributes to an indispensable body of literature from people of color in the mid-1800s. Elizabeth defends her work to Mr. Fry: “I wrote a book about my life, which included my years in the White House. I did it with the best of intentions” (347). Elizabeth suffers greatly from writing her memoir. Her reputation, business, and one of her closest friendships took a tremendous hit because of her honesty. However, in writing her life story, Elizabeth adds to a body of evidence proving the evils of slavery, Mr. Lincoln’s intentions to end slavery, and the truth about the indignities Mrs. Lincoln suffered at the hands of resentful politicians. While the nation may not have been ready to hear what Elizabeth had to say, future generations (including Mr. Fry) are wealthier for having her story.

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