Mrs. Lincoln's Dressmaker

Elizabeth wakes the following morning to a 500-gun salute marking the capture of General Lee. Walking with Virginia, Walker, and their children, Elizabeth makes her way to the front of the White House, where Mr. Lincoln celebrates the capture with cheers and songs from the military band. The celebrations continue, but Elizabeth and Virginia return home with the children. Elizabeth realizes for as long as she has been close with the Lincolns, she has never personally heard Mr. Lincoln speak until this day. While preparing a dress for Mrs. Lincoln, Elizabeth asks permission to attend Mr. Lincoln’s next formal address, bringing Emma as her guest. Mrs. Lincoln happily agrees; however, at the event, Elizabeth is struck by a horrible thought as Mr. Lincoln speaks out in public: he could very easily be assassinated. She shares her concerns with Emma, who agrees.

During his public address, Mr. Lincoln promises to enfranchise men of color, permitting them the right to vote. The notion excites Elizabeth. Feeling elated the following day, she thanks Mrs. Lincoln for having her attend the speech as a guest. On a whim, Elizabeth shares her worries for Mr. Lincoln’s safety. Mrs. Lincoln confides that she and Mr. Lincoln both have premonitions of his death. Mr. Lincoln often dreams of traveling on a ship toward a dark shore. Additionally, he saw his own face, though pale and lifeless, reflected to him in a mirror. More recently, Mr. Lincoln dreamed of wandering through the White House filled with people mourning, only to discover they were mourning the assassinated president.

Although Elizabeth attempts to reassure Mrs. Lincoln that all is well, Mrs. Lincoln loses her composure while anxiously admitting to increasing security. She feels helpless in her efforts to protect her husband. While Elizabeth can tell Mr. Lincoln is troubled by his more complex decisions during the war, she observes him tenderly play with Tad and his pet goats.

Elizabeth dresses Mrs. Lincoln for evening events while enjoying a cheerful mood among the first family. After witnessing General Lee’s surrender at Appomattox, Robert Lincoln returns home to spend time with his family and girlfriend. Although Mr. Lincoln is still plagued by the recurring nightmare onboard a ship approaching a dark shore, he appears lighter, knowing the war will soon reach its conclusion. Mrs. Lincoln privately reports that Mr. Lincoln has resumed sending her notes and flirting with her as if they are a courting couple. Elizabeth observes a loving moment when Mr. Lincoln encourages Robert to return to college and pursue law. Elizabeth finishes dressing Mrs. Lincoln for an evening out with Mr. Lincoln. The couple debated attending a theater performance, one of Mr. Lincoln’s favorite recreations.

A neighbor wakes Mrs. Lincoln in the middle of the night, informing her of an assassination attempt on Mr. Lincoln. She believes Mr. Lincoln is not mortally wounded, though she heard the entire presidential cabinet is dead. Walker Lewis agrees to walk Elizabeth to the heavily guarded White House in the middle of the night, knowing Mrs. Lincoln will want her close by. However, she is denied entrance and must retreat to her boarding house. While walking, they learn that Mr. Lincoln is dying after being shot in the head during a theater performance. By morning, church bells chime, announcing the passing of the nation’s president. Elizabeth is overwhelmed with grief when a carriage arrives to collect and deliver her to Mrs. Lincoln. While traveling, she learns that her neighbor received false information about the other cabinet members, who are all alive. Hundreds of people of color mourn the president’s death on the White House’s front lawn.

Mrs. Lincoln lies in a guest bedroom, her grief unmanageable. Elizabeth sits with her, offering her calming words of condolence before paying her respects to Mr. Lincoln’s body. She recalls Mr. Lincoln overseeing Willie’s body shortly after his passing, remembering his intense grief and loving affection for his young son. Elizabeth begins to lose her composure upon seeing Mr. Lincoln in the same room. She considers Mr. Lincoln to be like Moses for her community. Returning to Mrs. Lincoln’s side, Elizabeth finds Robert struggling to comfort his mother while Tad proves to be just as inconsolable. Great bursts of agonizing sobs torment both.

Mr. Lincoln and Willie Lincoln’s remains are boarded onto a train for Springfield, Illinois. Thousands of mourners line the tracks to express their grief and condolences as the train travels through the country. Elizabeth remains at the White House for six weeks straight, never leaving Mrs. Lincoln’s side. She notices that Vice President Andrew Johnson never sends condolences to Mrs. Lincoln, which she deems a low blow. Mrs. Lincoln doesn’t speak of Mr. Booth, her husband’s murderer, but she adamantly believes more people are involved in the assassination attempt. A member of the Lincolns’ security detail strayed from their private theater box to enjoy the performance, and Mrs. Lincoln feels convinced his neglect was intentional. Mrs. Lincoln addresses this guard directly with fiery rage.

Although Robert remains strong for his mother and brothers, Elizabeth can sense the responsibility as head of house weighs heavily on him. Tad rushes to Mrs. Lincoln’s room every night as she cries out. Heartbroken for Mr. Lincoln’s sons, Elizabeth can’t help but feel proud of their responsible and mature nature. Andrew Johnson allows the Lincolns to remain in residence for a short while before claiming the White House for his own family. Mrs. Lincoln feels overwhelmed by the abrupt and drastic changes in her life.

Mrs. Lincoln receives a letter of condolence from Queen Victoria, which she cherishes. She decides to move to Chicago. With Mr. Lincoln’s estate tied up in legalities and her personal debts above $75,000, Mrs. Lincoln considers her limited future options. Still, she strongly encourages Elizabeth to accompany her to Chicago. Although worried about losing her well-established business, Elizabeth feels she cannot abandon Mrs. Lincoln amidst her grief and misfortune. She recommends Emma to all her patrons, hoping her apprentice will maintain her business.

Mrs. Lincoln busies herself with packing enormous quantities of personal items. Robert chastises his mother for the trouble she creates in transporting her excessive luggage to Chicago. While preparing to leave the White House, servants and visitors steal many of the newly purchased furnishings and decorations Mrs. Lincoln purchased while redecorating. Elizabeth dislikes Robert's disrespectful tone with Mrs. Lincoln as they prepare to move. Mrs. Lincoln explains to Elizabeth that she cannot support herself or her children and relies on Congress to pay her a widow’s pension. She may need to sell her possessions to provide income for her, Tad, and Robert. The journey to Chicago is long and slow, made worse by Mrs. Lincoln’s migraines. The Lincolns find small, comfortable accommodation in a new hotel owned by a family friend. Elizabeth considers the rooms charming, with a beautiful view of Lake Michigan; however, Robert and Mrs. Lincoln believe the simple, quaint dwelling beneath their social standing.

Mrs. Lincoln and Elizabeth work with Tad on reading and writing. Although she tries not to be judgmental of her close friends, Elizabeth dislikes how the president and first lady neglected Tad’s education. Tad fights his mother as she attempts to teach him to read, lashing out in disrespect that resembles his older brother. Elizabeth recognizes Tad’s privilege in being allowed to struggle with his schoolwork without it being a reflection of his entire race, which she believes would undoubtedly be the case if Tad were Black.

Feeling ashamed of her circumstances, Mrs. Lincoln withdraws from society. She frequently writes to Congress asking for her husband’s salary, corresponding with several politicians demanding support. However, rumors emerge about Mr. Lincoln’s estate value, though not of how the wealth is tied up in legal proceedings. Additional rumors fault Mrs. Lincoln for the state of the White House after her departure, blaming her for the missing furniture. Mrs. Lincoln claims to be living in poverty while promising to provide for Elizabeth with no possible way of doing so. In addition to Tad’s education and Robert’s independence, Mrs. Lincoln busies herself with plans and preparations for Mr. Lincoln’s memorial. She confides in Elizabeth that she often has thoughts of dying by suicide.

Meanwhile, Elizabeth learns from Emma that her sewing business is failing. She stays informed on news and events, wishing she could write a kind letter to Mrs. Davis upon the capture of her husband, Jefferson Davis. Elizabeth attends the Great Northwest Sanitary Fair, a charitable event, though Mrs. Lincoln refuses to accompany her. There, she sees the catafalque that carried Mr. Lincoln’s remains. Decorated patriotically, the framework now holds artifacts from enslaved people. Reminded of her grief and difficult upbringing, Elizabeth quickly moves away from the sight. She comes across the final piece of clothing she sewed for Mrs. Davis, which some people believe Jefferson Davis used as a disguise while retreating from the Union Army. Elizabeth explains how she made the garment while sharing the story of her relationship with Mrs. Davis and her movements leading up to the war. The clothing sells for $2,500, which goes to charitable causes.

Elizabeth must return to Washington City by the end of June. By then, she convinces Mrs. Lincoln to leave her rooms daily for fresh air and exercise. The friends plan to see each other on the anniversary of Mr. Lincoln’s death and promise to write to each other in the meantime.

After a long return trip via train to Washington City, Elizabeth feels thankful to be among her friends, Virginia and Walker Lewis. She briefly visits the White House on behalf of Mrs. Lincoln, haunted by the memories of her time there with the Lincolns. Elizabeth sets to work restoring her sewing business. She is soon overwhelmed with dress orders, though she refuses to work for President Andrew Johnson’s daughters out of loyalty to Mrs. Lincoln. Although preoccupied with her travels, Mrs. Lincoln learns that her assistants also dislike the idea of working for the new first family. Elizabeth accepts an order from an upper-class lady before registering her name, later learning that she mistakenly accepted an order from President Johnson’s daughter. Elizabeth completes the work on a schedule that fits her other orders, finding the daughters pleasant. While delivering and fitting the dresses, Elizabeth observes the daughters sewing their own simpler garments. Elizabeth recalls Mrs. Lincoln’s expensive, unused sewing machine, though Mrs. Lincoln did know how to sew. In comparing the two first families, she finds fewer faults with the Johnsons, though she never associates with the president as she did with Mr. Lincoln.

Elizabeth receives letters from Mrs. Lincoln, who continues to struggle financially and faces legal action from the stores to which she still owes money. The stores threaten to reveal her debts via national newspapers. Additionally, Mr. Lincoln’s old law partner begins writing a biography depicting personal information about Mr. Lincoln’s private life. He propositions Mrs. Lincoln for personal details, which disgusts the widow. Elizabeth considers Mrs. Lincoln’s misfortune a national shame.

Bettie Garland, the cousin of Elizabeth’s controller during her enslavement, visits Elizabeth in Washington City. Elizabeth holds fond memories of Bettie and several other mistresses in the family. She receives her happily, and they share a pleasant visit. Later, Emma and Virginia remark on Elizabeth’s resilience in facing the people who withheld Elizabeth’s freedom. Emma doesn’t believe she could be so civil if confronted with the people who harmed her in the past.

Elizabeth visits the plantation, Rude’s Hill, where she lived with her mother while enslaved. The family treats Elizabeth with familiarity and kindness, referring to Elizabeth’s mother as a “maid.” Elizabeth chooses not to dwell on the fact that the family fought for the Confederate Army, allowing General Officer Stonewall Jackson to use the estate during the war. Elizabeth recalls many kindnesses bestowed upon her by the family, though she confronts them about withholding education during Elizabeth’s childhood. They part on good terms, and Elizabeth hopes to visit with them again as she returns to Washington City.