Mrs. Lincoln's Dressmaker

Elizabeth hears developments about the early stages of the Civil War from the wives of politicians for whom she sews. Although he hasn’t yet taken office, Lincoln receives countless death threats from Southerners and Southern sympathizers living in the North. She often creates apparel for Margaret Sumner McLean, who struggles with a politically diverse family, loyalties falling to both northern and southern states. Mrs. McLean visits Elizabeth unexpectedly at her boarding house, demanding Elizabeth create a dress for an upcoming dinner at the White House. Although Elizabeth finds the rushed timeline of the work to be an imposition, she agrees to make the dress when Mrs. McLean promises to introduce Elizabeth to Mrs. Lincoln. Elizabeth works tirelessly to create the dress, hiring two assistants to complete the job on time.

Elizabeth enjoys reading letters from George while waiting for Mrs. McLean to introduce her to Mrs. Lincoln. George and Elizabeth express tremendous pride in each other, and George admits to sharing Elizabeth’s first-hand political insights with his jealous peers, who only receive updates from biased newspapers. Mrs. McLean summons Elizabeth to Willard’s hotel on inauguration day to meet with Mrs. Lincoln. Elizabeth learns that Mrs. McLean delayed this meeting by a week, hampering Mrs. Lincoln’s first impression of Elizabeth. Nevertheless, Mrs. Lincoln had already heard about Elizabeth’s exquisite work from other ladies, and she asks Elizabeth to meet with her at the White House the following day. Elizabeth nervously awaits her appointment with Mrs. Lincoln in her boarding house rooms while Abraham Lincoln is sworn in as the 16th president of the United States.

Arriving at the White House, Elizabeth startles upon realizing several other dressmakers are concurrently being interviewed by Mrs. Lincoln. Elizabeth feels defeated as the only candidate who is a person of color. She recognizes the other ladies in Washington City recommended their favorite dressmakers in the hopes of incurring favor of the now powerful and influential Mrs. Lincoln. Called in last for her interview, Mrs. Lincoln reiterates that she is already acquainted with Elizabeth’s work and positive reputation. Mrs. Lincoln straightforwardly states that she cannot afford extravagance, and if Elizabeth can work cheaply, she would like to employ her as her official dressmaker. She then gives Elizabeth a dress that needs several alterations, which Elizabeth understands will be her audition for the job. Elizabeth recalls her other patrons’ poor opinions of Mrs. Lincoln, realizing those ladies have all now departed for the South. She finds Mrs. Lincoln to be reasonable and pleasant.

A few days later, Mrs. Lincoln requests Elizabeth make several more time-intensive and complicated alterations to her dress. Elizabeth agrees to the job, although it causes her to work stressful, long hours. She arrives at the White House with the completed dress shortly before Mrs. Lincoln is due to wear it to a levee. In an anxious state, Mrs. Lincoln scolds Elizabeth for not completing the dress sooner. Fearful of being judged harshly for a less-than-perfect appearance, Mrs. Lincoln declares she will skip the levee altogether. After some resistance, Mrs. Lincoln agrees to allow Elizabeth to dress her.

Elizabeth works quickly, and Mrs. Lincoln’s anxiety melts away upon realizing how perfectly the dress compliments her features and jewelry. Mr. Lincoln enters with Tad and Willie, Mr. and Mrs. Lincoln’s youngest sons, and he roughhouses with his children. Elizabeth delights in watching the father and sons. Still unsettled, Mrs. Lincoln dismisses her children. Mr. Lincoln warmly compliments all of the ladies on their appearance. He refers to Mrs. Lincoln as “mother” before asking her to accompany him to the party. Momentarily unable to find her handkerchief, Mr. Lincoln deduces that Tad and Willie stole Mrs. Lincoln’s article, and he retrieves it. Elizabeth feels charmed by the apparent love among the Lincoln family members.

The Lincolns’ first levee as America’s first family is successful. Many Southern politicians and sympathizers do not attend, and those who do mingle freely, enjoy the atmosphere. The daughter of one politician, Miss Kate Chase, snubs Mrs. Lincoln at the end of the party, but Elizabeth builds Mrs. Lincoln’s confidence about the insult. Elizabeth becomes Mrs. Lincoln’s regular modiste, creating dozens of dresses for her. Mr. Lincoln often requests Elizabeth tame his wild hair before parties, and Elizabeth happily tends to the president as well. Elizabeth becomes a close friend to the Lincolns, tending to the children when sick and running errands as needed. She dislikes the constant, harsh criticism that Mrs. Lincoln faces from the press.

On April 12, 1861, Fort Sumter in South Carolina is captured by the Confederacy. Rumors of a massive rebel army marching towards Washington ensue. Elizabeth and Virginia share their frustrations when learning that people of color are restricted from enlisting with the Union Army; this limitation simultaneously comforts Elizabeth, knowing George cannot enlist. While walking with Virginia, Elizabeth startles suddenly, believing she sees her husband, James, standing before her. Soon after, she receives a letter informing her of her husband’s death. Elizabeth neither celebrates nor mourns losing James.

Southern mobs create chaos in Baltimore, destroying critical railway systems and infrastructure and effectively cutting off Washington from the North. Although the Lincolns exhibit calm and resolve, most of the Washington elite retreat via horse and carriage to states further North. Those with Southern loyalties leave for their home state. Privately, Mr. Lincoln feels doubtful and isolated while waiting for reinforcing troops to arrive. Mrs. Lincoln confides in Elizabeth that she dislikes her role as first lady as she feels increasingly lonely and overly criticized. Growing up in a family that claimed ownership of enslaved people, several of Mrs. Lincoln’s siblings serve in the Confederate Army. Northern journalists suggest that Mrs. Lincoln sympathizes with the South, while Southern journalists accuse Mrs. Lincoln of possessing more abolitionist values than her husband. Moreover, Mrs. Lincoln quickly spends her entire allowance to decorate the White House, an action criticized by families with men at war. Simultaneously, Mrs. Lincoln is disparaged as tasteless and tawdry as she and Mr. Lincoln do not possess much independent wealth. Mr. Lincoln’s cabinet members find her suggestions and opinions annoying, and Mr. Lincoln limits his political discussions with Mrs. Lincoln.

Elizabeth attempts to ease Mrs. Lincoln’s troubles by speaking highly of her to her other clients. However, Elizabeth receives troubling news of her own: George writes to inform Elizabeth that he enlisted with the Union Army. He was successful in this endeavor because of his lighter skin tone. George feels honor-bound to those who remain enslaved, wanting to bring freedom to people of color throughout the country. Although terrified for her son, Elizabeth feels proud of George’s conscience and bravery.

Elizabeth’s business begins to soar as Mrs. Lincoln wears a wardrobe created almost entirely by Elizabeth. The extra income supplements Elizabeth’s budget as prices for food and necessities rise with the threat of Confederate invasion in Washington City. Union troops peacefully seize Alexandria, Virginia, removing a high-flying Confederate flag that has taunted the people of Washington City for months. In doing so, a close, young acquaintance of the Lincolns, Colonel Ellsworth, is killed by a civilian citizen of Virginia. This incident marks the first Union casualty on Confederate soil in the Civil War, an event that distresses the Lincolns. Mrs. Lincoln feels comforted by Elizabeth, whom she considers a dear friend. Proud to be closely associated with this powerful, admirable family, Elizabeth accompanies the Lincolns to Colonel Ellsworth’s funeral. His family presents Mrs. Lincoln with the Confederate flag he ripped down in his final moments.

Elizabeth’s concerns for George’s safety grow heavier after Colonel Ellsworth’s death, as the two men were about the same age. In his letters to Elizabeth, George reports his comrades are primarily German and Irish immigrants who face their own version of prejudice in America. George likes their ingenuity and abolitionist values, but he dislikes hearing them talk about people of color as inferior and lazy. Elizabeth reflects on George as a baby; George’s father, Alexander Kirkland, was a white man who felt entitled to sexually assault enslaved people. Elizabeth felt fearful of bearing a child into slavery, and when George was young, Elizabeth dreaded the constant threat of being separated from George.

Dozens of skirmishes occur throughout the country. Mr. Lincoln struggles to decide what to do with captured Confederate soldiers. Executing them will cause public outcry and result in retaliation against captured Union soldiers. However, negotiating an exchange of imprisoned soldiers will force Lincoln to recognize the Confederate government as legitimate. Mr. Lincoln also grapples with creating a purpose for General Robert E. Lee’s Virginia plantation, claimed by the Union Army. Having worked for the Lees for years, Elizabeth pities Mrs. Lee, who may never see her home again.

In July 1861, Union soldiers march toward Manassas, Virginia, assuming they will accomplish a surprise attack on Confederate soldiers. They plan on pushing into Richmond, Virginia, the Confederate capital, and swiftly ending the Civil War. Elizabeth declines an invitation from Emma Stevens to accompany a group of civilians to watch the battle. Emma is one of Elizabeth’s young protégées; like Elizabeth, Emma is a former enslaved person who battled to secure her freedom. The inexperienced Union soldiers and supporters swiftly and chaotically return to Washington City after losing the Battle of Bull Run to the Confederates. Elizabeth worries for George’s safety after learning about the lack of experience and organization from the Union generals. By August, Elizabeth receives a letter from George’s Captain informing her of George’s death.