37 pages • 1 hour read
Teju ColeA modern alternative to SparkNotes and CliffsNotes, SuperSummary offers high-quality Study Guides with detailed chapter summaries and analysis of major themes, characters, and more.
Despite his family’s warnings of danger, the narrator wants to take the danfo (the local public transit) to experience the city. His Aunt and Uncle are surprised he wouldn’t rather have a driver take him around and even try to enlist a visitor to the house for the task. The narrator stands firm and soon heads to the local bus station.
He describes the touts whose job is to fill the 14-seat bus as quickly as possible: They have a no-nonsense attitude and swagger that extends to their whole identities and that they expect other Lagosian citizens to adopt as a survival strategy.
The narrator’s Uncle Bello tells him a story of being accosted by a man who demanded money. When the man threatened him for more, Uncle Bello’s only recourse was to threaten the man right back, so he did, hiding his fear and saying he’d kill him. The man backed down, and Uncle Bello gave him another bit of money to save face, amounting to about $3 in total.
The narrator is keenly aware that he must be like his uncle: cool and collected but ready to threaten violence. This is what he’s thinking when he’s interrupted by the sight of a beautiful woman.
The woman the narrator sees is striking, but he’s just as interested in the fact that she’s reading Michael Ondaatje, one of his favorite authors. Nigerians, he says, primarily read newspapers, magazines, and tabloids, which makes this even more surprising to him. He goes through the conversation he’d like to have with her about literature, but he knows that the danfo isn’t a place where trust in strangers is easy. He hopes she’ll get off at his stop, but she doesn’t.
At the wedding, the narrator’s aunt tells the story of a friend of the family, Mrs. Adelaja: In 1998, armed robbers came to her house and killed her husband. The narrator’s family has its own history with armed robbers, as criminals besieged them one night but couldn’t get in; after the narrator left for America, thieves returned to the house and stole things while holding the family hostage.
Mrs. Adelaja’s story is worse, however, as the thieves took her husband with them in the trunk of their car when they left. They then used him as bait to get his neighbors to open their doors, taking the husband from that home too. After discussing it, the thieves decided that they must shoot the witnesses, and they killed Mr. Adelaja in the trunk of the car while his neighbor watched. They intended to use the neighbor for further robberies but were picked up by police.
The narrator observes Mrs. Adelaja, who looks radiant and unbothered by her sad history. He looks around at his family, all of whom have been changed by the years since he’s been gone and by similar kinds of loss. The narrator, too, lost his father, and his memories of his father are fading. He’s reminded of the lines from TS Eliot’s The Waste Land: “‘And there, behind it, marched so long a file / Of people, I would never have believed / That death could have undone so many souls’” (49).
The narrator briefly describes a scene in which he watches a television broadcast of Pastor Olakunle, whose sermon promises healing from God. The narrator notes his silk suit, his Rolls Royce, and his great wealth. The God of Nigeria is not a poor one.
The narrator has a conversation with another relative, his nephew Adebola, who is a good student who attends a school founded by Tai Solarin, a noted humanist who championed free elementary education. The narrator asks Adebola if he knows what a humanist is, and Adebola says it’s “someone who doesn’t believe in God” (54). The narrator tries to correct him that this is the definition of an atheist, but Adebola is adamant that is what he learned in school.
The narrator goes to a market, which he sees as a cornerstone of life in Nigeria. There, he’s mistaken for oyinbo (a Nigerian word for white people that colloquially refers to anyone of European or Western descent). Revealing himself as native Nigerian doesn’t help him get a better price, and as he wanders the market, describing its wares and sights, he’s repeatedly mistaken for a foreigner.
He comes out of the market into a crowded intersection where, he’s told, a boy was recently killed. The boy was 11 and had stolen a bag from the market. In Lagos, thievery often leads to mob violence, and the narrator describes it as a ritualized act of cruel justice. In this incident, the boy was surrounded, and it’s said that he attempted to steal a baby, which the crowd believes. A digital camera caught the event in which the boy was beaten, bound by having a tire thrown over him, doused in petrol, and burned.
The incident passes from memory quickly, except for copies of the video that the narrator imagines still circulates among the shopkeepers or the local police. He leaves the scene and finds a danfo, noting the religious bumper stickers on the vehicle.
As the narrator explores the city, he grapples with the violence that undergirds Nigerian culture, which is rooted in the sense of exploitation and mutual victimization that he saw in the early days of his trip. The people of Lagos are quick to escalate, in part because they know that’s the most effective way to prevent themselves from being victimized. However, this attitude leads to a society in which everyone’s on guard. Ironically, preparing for violent situations leads to more violence, as in the case of Uncle Bello and the man who threatened to kill each other over the equivalent of $3. It also leads to mob justice, and the narrator notes that the tragedy of a young boy being murdered over an accusation of theft fades from the social consciousness of Lagos far more quickly than it should. The narrator seeks out these narratives, as he finds it important to bear witness.
Nigerians, on the other hand, seem to him keen on erasing the past or posturing as though things are fine. In some cases, like that of Mrs. Adelaja, the narrator sees a quiet dignity. In others, he sees more exploitation and hypocrisy, especially in the context of religion. Nigeria’s colonial background brought with it Christianity, and the narrator sees that as a pernicious part of the problem in his homeland. The pastor he describes on television funnels his congregants’ wealth to his own ends while preaching the power of miracles and prosperity that will come to them, and the humanist tradition that helped Nigeria develop (embodied by figures like Tai Solarin) has been overwritten by a binary system of religious belief versus atheism. For the narrator, this is part of the flattened, present-tense culture of Nigeria that disallows nuance in favor of pretending as though prosperity has been achieved.
In a sense, the narrator sees everyone in Nigerian public life as a tout: unable to be vulnerable and forced to posture as they address their immediate concerns. That’s why he’s so taken by the woman on the danfo (though he also finds her beautiful): The fact that she’s reading literature in public suggests that other ways to be exist in Lagos, ways that are more in line with his own ideal. He sees little evidence of a life of the mind in Lagos, which he sees as both a consequence and a cause of its cultural lack. The woman is evidence that this isn’t entirely the case and that his hope for a better future for his homeland isn’t altogether unfounded.
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